Fungal Acne Safe Ingredients: Complete Guide
Learn which ingredients are safe for fungal acne (Malassezia) and which to avoid. Build a fungal acne safe skincare routine.
Fungal acne, properly called Malassezia folliculitis or pityrosporum folliculitis, requires a different approach than regular acne. Many ingredients that are fine for normal acne can actually feed the yeast that causes fungal acne.
What is Fungal Acne?
Fungal acne is not actually acne. It is a yeast infection of hair follicles caused by Malassezia yeast, which is naturally present on everyones skin.
How to Identify Fungal Acne
| Feature | Fungal Acne | Regular Acne |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Uniform small bumps | Various sizes |
| Location | Forehead, chest, back | T-zone, cheeks, chin |
| Itching | Often itchy | Rarely itchy |
| Response to antibiotics | No improvement | May improve |
| Response to antifungals | Improves | No effect |
What Malassezia Feeds On
Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths of 11-24, particularly:
- C12-C24 fatty acids
- Most oils and fatty alcohols
- Certain esters
- Polysorbates
Ingredients to AVOID
Oils and Fats
| Avoid | Reason |
|---|---|
| Coconut oil | Contains lauric acid (C12) |
| Olive oil | Contains oleic acid |
| Most plant oils | Fatty acid content |
| Shea butter | Fatty acid content |
| Cocoa butter | Fatty acid content |
| Lanolin | Feeds Malassezia |
Fatty Acids and Alcohols
- Lauric acid
- Oleic acid
- Palmitic acid
- Stearic acid
- Cetyl alcohol (debated)
- Stearyl alcohol (debated)
Esters
- Isopropyl myristate
- Isopropyl palmitate
- Glyceryl stearate
- Most lipid esters
Other Problematic Ingredients
- Polysorbates (20, 60, 80)
- Some fermented ingredients
- Galactomyces ferment filtrate (debated)
SAFE Ingredients
Safe Oils and Emollients
| Safe | Why |
|---|---|
| Squalane | Not a food source for Malassezia |
| MCT oil (C8/C10 only) | Short chain, not metabolized |
| Mineral oil | Not a fatty acid |
| Caprylic/capric triglyceride | Short chain fatty acids |
Safe Humectants
- Glycerin
- Hyaluronic acid
- Sodium hyaluronate
- Propylene glycol
- Butylene glycol
- Aloe vera
Safe Actives
- Niacinamide
- Salicylic acid
- Azelaic acid
- Sulfur
- Zinc pyrithione
- Urea
Safe Silicones
- Dimethicone
- Cyclomethicone
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Most silicones
Antifungal Ingredients
These actively fight Malassezia:
- Zinc pyrithione
- Selenium sulfide
- Ketoconazole
- Sulfur
- Tea tree oil (in moderation)
- Honey
Building a Fungal Acne Safe Routine
Cleanser
Look for:
- Simple, oil-free formulas
- No fatty alcohols in first few ingredients
- Gel or foam cleansers often safer
Treatment
Antifungal options:
- Nizoral (ketoconazole) as a mask
- Sulfur masks
- Products with zinc pyrithione
Moisturizer
Look for:
- Squalane-based
- Silicone-based
- Glycerin-heavy without oils
- Gel moisturizers
Sunscreen
Often challenging. Look for:
- Mineral sunscreens
- Oil-free formulas
- Avoid fatty alcohol bases
Tips for Managing Fungal Acne
- Get diagnosed properly - See a dermatologist to confirm
- Check ALL products - Including hair care, body wash
- Be patient - Takes weeks to see improvement
- Keep skin dry - Yeast thrives in moisture
- Change sweaty clothes - Do not let sweat sit
- Consider diet - Some find reducing sugar helps
The Bottom Line
Managing fungal acne requires scrutinizing every product you use. It is challenging but achievable with the right ingredient awareness.
Need help checking if products are fungal acne safe? Use SCRNE to scan ingredient lists and identify ingredients that may feed Malassezia yeast.
Sources
-
Rubenstein, R. M., & Malerich, S. A. "Malassezia (Pityrosporum) Folliculitis." Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, vol. 7, no. 3, 2014, pp. 37-41. PubMed
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Saunte, D. M. L., et al. "Malassezia-Associated Skin Diseases, the Use of Diagnostics and Treatment." Frontiers in Cellular and Infection Microbiology, vol. 10, 2020, pp. 112. PubMed
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Gupta, A. K., & Bluhm, R. "Seborrheic dermatitis." Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, vol. 18, no. 1, 2004, pp. 13-26. PubMed
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Cosmetic Ingredient Review. "Safety Assessment of Fatty Acids and Related Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics." CIR Expert Panel
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American Academy of Dermatology. "Folliculitis: Diagnosis and Treatment." AAD.org