How to Read Skincare Ingredient Labels Like a Pro
Master the skill of reading skincare ingredient labels. Learn what INCI names mean, how to spot key ingredients, and what the order tells you.
Understanding skincare ingredient labels can feel like learning a new language. Those long chemical names seem intimidating, but once you know the basics, you can make much better decisions about your products.
The Basics of Ingredient Lists
INCI Names
Ingredients are listed using INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names. These standardized names help you identify the same ingredient across different products worldwide.
Example:
- Water = Aqua
- Vitamin E = Tocopherol
- Vitamin C = Ascorbic Acid
- Shea Butter = Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Order Matters
Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration:
| Position | Meaning |
|---|---|
| First 5 ingredients | Make up majority of product |
| Middle of list | Moderate amounts |
| End of list | Small amounts (often under 1%) |
The 1% Line
Ingredients under 1% can be listed in any order. Common 1% markers:
- Preservatives (phenoxyethanol, etc.)
- Fragrance/parfum
- Certain actives at effective concentrations
If a featured ingredient appears after these markers, there may not be much of it.
Key Ingredients to Recognize
Beneficial Actives
| INCI Name | Common Name | Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Retinol | Vitamin A | Anti-aging, acne |
| Ascorbic Acid | Vitamin C | Brightening |
| Niacinamide | Vitamin B3 | Oil control |
| Hyaluronic Acid | HA | Hydration |
| Salicylic Acid | BHA | Exfoliation |
| Glycolic Acid | AHA | Exfoliation |
Common Moisturizing Ingredients
| INCI Name | Type |
|---|---|
| Glycerin | Humectant |
| Squalane | Emollient |
| Dimethicone | Occlusive |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Emollient |
| Butyrospermum Parkii | Shea butter |
Preservatives
- Phenoxyethanol
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Methylparaben, Propylparaben
- Benzisothiazolinone
- Potassium Sorbate
Red Flags and Green Flags
Watch Out For (If Acne-Prone)
- Cocos Nucifera Oil (Coconut oil) - Rating 4
- Isopropyl Myristate - Rating 5
- Isopropyl Palmitate - Rating 4
Generally Safe for Acne-Prone
- Squalane - Rating 0-1
- Niacinamide - Rating 0
- Hyaluronic Acid - Rating 0
- Glycerin - Rating 0
Practical Tips
1. Do Not Panic Over Chemical Names
Long names do not mean dangerous. Water is sometimes listed as "Aqua" or "Hydrogen Dioxide."
2. Check Featured Ingredients
If a product highlights an ingredient on the front, check where it appears in the list. Early = more product. Late = marketing emphasis.
3. Learn Your Triggers
Track ingredients in products that break you out. Over time, you may identify patterns.
4. Use Resources
Skincare ingredient databases and apps can help identify unfamiliar ingredients.
The Bottom Line
Reading ingredient labels is a learnable skill. Start by recognizing a few key ingredients, understand that order indicates concentration, and gradually build your knowledge.
Want an easier way to analyze ingredient lists? Use SCRNE to scan any product and instantly get detailed information about every ingredient, including comedogenic ratings and skin concerns.
Sources
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U.S. Food and Drug Administration. "Cosmetics Labeling Guide." FDA.gov
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European Commission. "Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on Cosmetic Products." Official Journal of the European Union, 2009.
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Personal Care Products Council. "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI)." PCPC.org
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Cosmetic Ingredient Review. "How CIR Works." CIR Expert Panel
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American Academy of Dermatology. "How to read a skin care product label." AAD.org